Modelling linear wave transformation induced by dissipative structures—Random waves     

R. Silva  M.A. Losada  P. Salles 《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(16):2174-2194

The relevant theory is presented and numerical results are compared with the analytical solution for the interaction of non-breaking waves with an array of vertical porous circular cylinders on a horizontal bed. The extension to the cases of unidirectional and multidirectional waves is obtained by means of a transfer function. The influence of the mechanical properties of porous structures and wave irregularity on wave transformation is analysed. Results for unidirectional and multidirectional wave spectra are compared to those obtained for regular waves. The model presented reproduces well the analytical results and provides a tool for analysing several engineering problems.  相似文献   

A study of Coriolis effects on long waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin     

Ashabul Hoque  Azizur Rahman 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(11-12):1701-1705

The effects of Coriolis force on long waves have been discussed based on gravity waves propagating in an unbounded ocean, channel and basin. In case of ocean, results show that the Coriolis effect will be significant and negligible, when the wave period is comparable to 2π/f and much shorter, respectively. Results also show in a channel, the wave amplitude and water particle velocity decrease exponentially in the positive y direction in the northern hemisphere (where f is positive). Moreover, in a basin, the Cotidal lines have been found as curves and rotate counterclockwise around the origin.  相似文献   

胶州湾口海底沙波的类型、特征及发育影响因素   总被引：3，自引：1，他引：3  

边淑华  夏东兴  陈义兰  赵月霞 《中国海洋大学学报(自然科学版)》2006,36(2):327-330

采用多波束资料对胶州湾口的海底沙波类型、特征进行了研究,发现研究区主要有线性沙波(二维)、沙丘(三维)2种沙波类型。结合水流流速、海底构造和表层沉积物综合分析发现:海底沙波缓坡朝向与优势流向不完全一致,为强流作用的产物,在涨、落潮作用下均可形成;沉积物的多寡是研究区海底沙波类型分布的决定因素,海底松散沉积物较为丰富的地区形成二维沙波。在水动力强大的胶州湾口,沉积物多分布在构造低洼地带,使二维线性沙波的分布与海底断裂延伸方向一致。  相似文献   

Experimental study of the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater     

D. -S. Hur  N. Kawashima  K. Iwata 《Ocean Engineering》2003,30(15):1923-1940

This study investigates experimentally the breaking wave height of multi-directional random waves passing over an impermeable submerged breakwater. Experiments have been conducted in a three-dimensional wave basin equipped with a multi-directional random wave generator. A special type of wave gauge has been newly devised to record the water surface elevations in the breaker zone as accurately as possible. The records are analyzed to estimate the location and limit of wave breaking. Comparisons have also been made with the results of regular waves. The influence of the incident wave conditions on the breaking wave height normalized by the breakwater dimensions has been investigated. Empirical formulae have been presented to estimate the breaking limit of multi-directional random waves based on the experimental records. The formulae have been tested and found to work well not only for multi-directional random waves, but for regular waves as well.  相似文献   

Regeneration of sand waves after dredging   总被引：2，自引：0，他引：2  

M. A. F. Knaapen  S. J. M. H. Hulscher 《Coastal Engineering》2002,46(4):1096

Sand waves are large bed waves on the seabed, being a few metres high and lying hundreds of metres apart. In some cases, these sand waves occur in navigation channels. If these sand waves reduce the water depth to an unacceptable level and hinder navigation, they need to be dredged. It has been observed in the Bisanseto Channel in Japan that the sand waves tend to regain their shape after dredging. In this paper, we address modelling of this regeneration of sand waves, aiming to predict this process. For this purpose, we combine a very simple, yet effective, amplitude-evolution model based on the Landau equation, with measurements in the Bisanseto Channel. The model parameters are tuned to the measured data using a genetic algorithm, a stochastic optimization routine. The results are good. The tuned model accurately reproduces the measured growth of the sand waves. The differences between the measured weave heights and the model results are smaller than the measurement noise. Furthermore, the resulting parameters are surprisingly consistent, given the large variations in the sediment characteristics, the water depth and the flow field. This approach was tested on its predictive capacity using a synthetic test case. The model was tuned based on constructed predredging data and the amplitude evolution as measured for over 2 years. After tuning, the predictions were accurate for about 10 years. Thus, it is shown that the approach could be a useful tool in the optimization of dredging strategies in case of dredging of sand waves.  相似文献   

On the parametric resonance of container ships     

Metin Taylan   《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(7):1021-1027

This work deals with parametric resonance which poses a great danger especially for container ships sailing in following or head seas. Important parameters that are effective in roll resonance are pointed out. For this purpose, a containership is taken as an example to analyze its stability in longitudinal waves based on the method worked out by American Bureau of Shipping (ABS). Unfavorable sailing conditions such as heading and speed, which directly depend on the environmental conditions, have been determined for this particular ship. These conditions may be reported to the master to guide him to keep his ship out of parametric resonance zones. Numerical details of the procedure have been worked out and provided as well.  相似文献   

A higher-order σ-coordinate non-hydrostatic model for nonlinear surface waves     

Chih-Chieh Young  Jan-Tai Kuo 《Ocean Engineering》2007,34(10):1357-1370

A higher-order non-hydrostatic model in a σ-coordinate system is developed. The model uses an implicit finite difference scheme on a staggered grid to simultaneously solve the unsteady Navier-Stokes equations (NSE) with the free-surface boundary conditions. An integral method is applied to resolve the top-layer non-hydrostatic pressure, allowing for accurately resolving free-surface wave propagation. In contrast to the previous work, a higher-order spatial discretization is utilized to approximate the large horizontal pressure gradient due to steep surface waves or rapidly varying topographies. An efficient direct solver is developed to solve the resulting block hepta-diagonal matrix system. Accuracy of the new model is validated by linear and nonlinear standing waves and progressive waves. The model is then used to examine freak (extreme) waves. Features of downshifting focusing location and wave asymmetry characteristics are predicted on the temporal and spatial domains of a freak wave.  相似文献   

Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves composing wave groups     

Yong-Sik Cho  Jae-Sang Jung   《Ocean Engineering》2006,33(1):82-92

Numerical analyses for the Bragg resonant reflection of carrier waves associated long waves due to sinusoidally varying seabeds are performed by using a set of coupled ordinary differential equations derived from the Boussinesq equations. The Boussinesq equations are firstly approximated with the Fourier decomposition. The coupled governing equations are then derived and used to simulate evolution of both short and long wave components. It is also found that wave groups are generated by two carrier waves with slightly different frequencies. The wave energy of the initial wave components is transferred to other harmonic components during propagation over a long distance. Evolution and reflection of both short and long waves were largely affected by nonlinearity.  相似文献   

Wave Reflection Caused by Wave Overtopping and Sloping Top of Spructure     

LI  Yanbao 《中国海洋工程》2002,16(2):211-218

In this paper, the theoretical analysis and experimental studies are employed to investigate the reflection characteris-tics of partial standing waves caused by wave overtopping and sloping top of structures. Based on the principle of conser-vation of wave energy flux, the third-order Stokes wave theory is used to formulate the reflection coefficient at wave overtopping; the calculation results are regressed into an applied expression. A series of experiments of wave reflection for a vertical-wall structure with chamfered and overhanging upper sections are carried out to investigate the influence of top slope on wave reflection. The regularity of variation of wave reflection in this case is analysed based on the experimental results.  相似文献   

Hilbert Transferin Applied to Separation of Waves     

孙鹤泉  王永学  彭静萍 《中国海洋工程》2002,(2)

The analytical method (AM) for separation of composite waves is presented based on the Hilbert transform. It is ap-plicable to both regular and irregular trains of waves. The wave data series measured with two wave gauges in the experi-ments are separated into two series of incident and reflected waves. Then, the reflection coefficient can be easily ob-tained. The arrival of reflected waves can also be detected for improveraent of the accuracy of the reflection coefficient. The reflection performance of the physical model can be estimated exactly without calculation of wave height and phase difference. Numerical samples developed to test the method are proved to be accurate. Physical experiments are conduct-ed and compared with Goda s method and satisfactory results are obtained.  相似文献